It’s hard to fathom now, but there once was a time when Americans wanted nothing to do with bacon.
This dark age was known as the 1980s. A wave of anti-fat hysteria swept the country, and no self-respecting adult would be caught dead with greasy fingers from rich, crispy, pan-fried pork bellies. Instead, some consumers turned to dubious breakfast alternatives like Sizzlean, a purportedly healthier, but still highly processed meat product, promising 50% less fat—and no shrinkage from cooking.
Thankfully, those days are long gone. Bacon is chic again and has been for quite some time. Yet, in some ways, we’re still grasping for its purest expression, but just going about it in a very different way. Rather than removing the fat, contemporary pork producers are eliminating other things, like nitrates and artificial ingredients.
Modern better-for-you bacon is available from many brands in many varieties, often at a higher price than the classic, additive-laden pork strips of yore. They all clearly promote their quality standards on the packaging, but which ones taste the best?
To find out, I recently rounded up a thick stack of various bacons from several reputable producers and packed them up for a camping trip with a large group of dad friends. We cooked the bacon on a large cast iron grill top, placed over a hot fire pit. I later followed up by frying the same brands in a skillet for my family back at home. Both my friends and my family had a lot of opinions.
Here’s how each kind of bacon fared, ranked in order from the least impressive to the very best. To be clear: none of these bacons tasted bad. (Does real bacon ever taste bad?) But some smoky flavors simply stood out above the rest.
This variety from North Country Smokehouse is made a little differently than all the others. It’s smoked over a bed of corn cobs, “rendering a stronger smokiness than hardwood for a traditional flavor that’s well-loved throughout New Hampshire and Vermont,” according to the company’s website.
It carries both Animal Welfare Certified and Certified Humane logos, and pledges no antibiotics, no added hormones, no liquid smoke, fillers, or dyes. Ingredients include the usual sea salt and celery powder, but also turbinado sugar and maple syrup.
Holy smokes! It is good—striking an impressive balance of sweet, smoky, savory, and salty flavors, with a subtle but noticeable hint of maple. My youngest child described it as “like a canon of really good flavors, bursting into your mouth.” The missus called it “so rich and delicious,” adding, “I had half a slice and had to go back for more.” The campfire crew really liked it, too.
Both the Nature’s Rancher and North Country Smokehouse varieties are exceptional and either would significantly enhance your breakfast spread or BLT. But, as the only taster to try each brand multiple times, I give the edge to North Country for its extra layers of flavor and uncommon corn-cob approach. Look for it at Whole Foods, Wegmans, Target, Stop & Shop, and other retailers.
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